Us Revolver Co Serial Number Lookup Rating: 9,4/10 7897 votes

Contact your local police department or sheriff’s office to run a gun serial number search if you are looking to purchase a pre-owned gun from a dealer. Police records will indicate whether the gun has been used in a crime or has been reported lost or stolen. Checking the serial number with the police department or sheriff’s office is beneficial if you’re considering buying a gun from a dealer because they can quickly check whether a gun was used for a crime or reported stolen in all states using the national ATF database. Warnings. Private websites like Gun Verify can be helpful in finding information about a pre-owned firearm and they’re easy to use. However, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use other resources to check the serial number if there is no Gun Verify match. Do not buy a pre-owned gun if the serial number appears to be missing or has been filed off.

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Check out our lines of 1911 pistols, shotguns, grips, mags, holsters, conversion kits, soft cases, butt plates, handguards, and more. View All Iver Johnson.

This is illegal in some states, and in many cases, it means the gun has been stolen or used for a crime. Antique guns may not have serial numbers, but be sure to do your homework to make sure the particular model you’re looking at wasn’t imprinted with a serial number before you buy it.

I got most of the following information from Bill Goforth, expert on Iver Johnson and H&R guns. Here goes. In about 1910, Iver Johnson went from black powder to smokeless. They had piles of old black powder parts left and wanted to do something with the parts but did not want degrade their revolvers, so they boutgh out a new line of guns. They produced both break top and solid frame in 22LR, 32 S&W, and 38 S&W. The serial number on the out side my not be the correct and the correct serial number is under the left grip on the frame. These guns were made from about 1910 to 1935. After the black powder parts were used up, they used smokeless parts which would be OK for modern ammo, however I do not know the cut off date. If there is no letter in front of the serial number, I would consider it black powder. I have a an early break top 38 S&W model made in 1911 and will not use it, it complete and works, but was very loose. I tighten it up, by using a small C-clam with very light touch at the break open point, so the metal is very soft.
I paid 44.00 two years ago, but have seen a small frame break top 32 S&W for 109.00 at the shooting range and it was gone two weeks later.
Hope this helps, Bill Goforth Iver Johnson book is sold out and 2ed edition is held up buy the publisher. His new book on H&R gun shold be out soon.